Sawa-I-Lau Caves- with Map

Heather has already posted great pictures and the story of the Sawa-I-Lau caves that we visited twice, so I thought I would add on with a map that may help future visitors, in case the guides arent there, or aren't available. The cost to enter the cave is $20 FJD per adult and the kids seem negotiable. Sometimes there is no one to pay though.

Sawa-I-Lau Cave Map - Not to scale! :-)

The caves are really three sections. The first is the open air cave that you enter the water in, and that has an open cathedral ceiling to the sky- this provides all the light you need.  The entry is very easy thanks to a solid, but rusting, ladder that helps you in to the water.  There is a secret on land walk through, which you have to clammer up some rocks to access, and I have shown it on the map, but I havent done it personally- I just watched the Javelot family make their way through and emerge out of a different location. We are saving that for next time.

Almost directly to the right of the stairs and on the center-ish of the western side of Cave #1 is a slight rock jutting out that once you swim to, and look under, you can see a wide opening that leads to Cave #2.  For these caves, and #3, you will need a good underwater flashlight, as they have no alternate light sources.  In Cave #2, the locals have crafted a nice square "float" made out of 3 inch PVC tubes, which gives you something to hold on to, as you explore the labyrinth of Cave #2.  If you dive underwater you can see several other exits back to Cave #1. What is surprising is that once you are back a bit in Cave #2 you can actually get quite disoriented quickly and you will find yourself looking around trying to figure out where you came from and how to get back.  Its not quite that dramatic as its not really that big, but you will have the sensation, and you can certainly bring along some wool to spell out, as if you were hunting for a Minotaur (Greek Mythology reference).

We had heard about "Secret Cave #3", and as shown on the map, its not that hard to find, it just takes some intestinal fortitude to scout out the tunnel several times, and finally take a leap of faith that you can make it there, and that you'll find air, or that you'll at least have enough air to get back. I think the swim is probably 20-25 seconds, and you want to swim down 6-8 feet first.  Many folks take wetsuits in to the caves, and for this section they aren't that helpful, as you tend to float up to the top of the tunnel, and waste air and energy kicking down.  Essentially the tunnel is a slight right, then two left hand turns approximately 70-90 degrees each.  The Cave is well worth it, as its almost the largest round "room" of all of them, and has a smaller back section that has some salt stalagtites starting to form.

We'll be back to scout out some more, but hopefully this helps fellow cruisers coming after us.  CHRIS

The caves in the Yasawa Islands, Fiji

Hello Everyone,

We have had a number of rainy squally days lately.  I guess it helps us really appreciate the beautiful sun when it comes out.  One of the harder things about being on a boat when it there are rainy days in succession is the fact that we can’t dry anything out and cloth becomes moldy smelling after a time... Phew.. 

We left the Blue Lagoon and headed north 9 miles to a place know for limestone caves.   When we arrived the islands up there reminded us so much of a combination of Tonga and the Marquesas.  The rock peaks weren’t as high but they were definitely just as beautiful.  We anchored off of the the caves location in the turquoise waters and admired the white sandy beaches with the rocks overhanging.  

We were told that the local village charges to go into the caves and that you need to pay for their guide to take you in and that it gets locked at times. Honey, another boat family that we know, came over and said that they had just gone through the caves and it was a lot of fun.  They mentioned that there was a cruise ship coming in so they were closing the caves to everyone except the passengers of the cruise ship.  We really don’t like following crowds into small and dark spaces anyway... When we noticed most of the passengers were leaving we all jumped in the dinghy and headed to the beach.  We were going to see if we could go through the caves after everyone left.  As it turns out one of the last passengers was a guy from Santa Ynez, California and he ended up getting back in the water and showing Chris where the secret underwater part to the dark cave is.  It was really nice of him because as it turns out... the guides had left after the last passengers and you can not lock the door to the cave because the lock was completely rusted out.  

So Chris, Oma, Amaia, Tristan, Alexia, Alina and I all got our masks and rash guards on and jumped in.  The cave is really beautiful inside with its high steeped limestone formations parts are open to the sky for light and the water is an amazing turquoise.  We were there when it was medium tide so after swimming around a little in this hidden pool we wanted to go into the next cave which in order to get into you need to dive under a small section in the dark and then enter up into the dark cave.  Chris went first and then Tristan followed.  They both had underwater flashlights so it helps when someone is in on the other side so you know where you need to go.  Tristan shined the light and then Chris came back for Oma.  

Oma getting ready to hold her breath and squeeze through the opening down below

Can I tell you how proud I am of her to go through this.  It is not a wide opening to go through so you have to hold your breath and turn sideways and kick your way down and through to get up and into this dark cave.  It isn’t very far.. Only about 4 feet, but if you haven’t done this before it is a little scary.  Oma got ready and held her breath and then like a champ ducked under and headed in with Chris pulling her through so she didn’t hit her head... then on the outside where we were waiting we could hear her pop up and start saying... “Oh Wow, Oh Wow.... hee, hee”.  Now it is everyone else’s turn to go in... Alexia just ducked right under and swam in... this girl is so fearless when it comes to this stuff.. she never seems to hesitate or get nervous under water in dark places... I on the other hand am chicken and it always takes me a little bit of muster to do it.  Chris came back and got Amaia and led her through while I waited for Alina... I couldn’t get Alina to do it... she just wouldn’t go in.  She is a little like me in that she worries that she won’t be able to hold her breath long enough to get through... she doesn’t seem to believe that there is a cave in there and that you can breath once you get through the pass.  I KNOW she could definitely hold her breath long enough, especially watching her play and swim around and dive under our boat... but she wouldn’t go... so I waited with her.  Tristan came back out to check on us and when I told him I couldn’t get her to go we said he would wait with her while I go on in and explore with the others.  He is so thoughtful and helpful these days that I am ever grateful for him.  He is really an amazing kid if I do say so myself and am so happy that he seems to be forever thinking of others and how they are.  Anyway... by the time I got in everyone was getting ready to go out so I didn’t go deep in the cave to explore but at least got to hang out inside the limestone cave... with the echoes and the water illuminating below from the light outside of the cave.  It is neat to be inside and looking down at the water where you came through because it casts this light that looks like a pool lit up at night.  They village had put this floating square PVC pipe so that people could go in and use it to float through the cave on... Oma was just hanging out with Alexia and Amaia when I got in there.  

Did I mention the sea lice... Oh that was a fun little benefit to the caves.  They like the algae that grows on the rocks.  They are these little biting bugs that after a short time discover we are in there and like to take a nibble or to.  They don’t hurt too bad and are more on the ibby gibby side of annoyances but never the less the longer you are in the caves either your mind starts to tell you that you are getting attacked by them or they are really increasing in numbers and it is time to leave.  See-ya...

We were able to go back the next day and we finally got Alina to go into the back caves... the tide was low so she could just swim in and then she realized she could breath... it was also a bonus that their friend Ivan from Javalot was in there and she could follow and play with him.  Motivation...

On a funny not so funny note.. we were sitting around having breakfast and Oma just now decides to tell us that she is deathly allergic to jellyfish stings and has to be rushed to the hospital if she gets stung.  WHAT!  OMG... do you think you could have shared that when you first got on the boat in Mexico... UGH... We were getting stung in Mexico all the time and then while swimming with the mantas with Oma I got stung twice... they are little stings that leave small welts but still... She thinks she grew out of it and it was 50 years ago this happened... and maybe it was a certain kind of jellyfish... yada yada yada... so now we just have to be extra attentive to make sure there are no symptoms in the water... 

We did catch yet another fish on the way back to the Blue Lagoon anchorage... Yes a Bluefin Tuna this time... Oma is our good luck charm.

Oma is adjusting well to life on the boat... outdoor showers, knowing there isn’t water unless the pump is turned on, changing clothes multiple times a day, always getting wet getting to shore, clothes staying wet for long periods of times, stinking towels, lots of leftovers, house is a mess/chaos, running generator in order to make coffee and have  power, limited internet.... and she loves it...  Just another day in the life.

Hope all is well...

Hugs and love to everyone..

Heath

So nice to give a helping hand.....

Hello Everyone,

We visited our first village today.  We didn’t know what to expect so we all got dressed up in our best, grabbed our kava and loaded up in the dinghy to cross the bay to the village on the other side.  We pulled up to the beach and were immediately greeted with Bula Bula and introduced to everyone there.  We were directed to Si who was the person we were told to give the kava too.  Once all greetings were made we were able to go and visit everyone in the village.  It was wonderful to walk around and see the kids.  It was a small village of about 30 homes that we could see some were usable others looked abandoned.  The village had a central grass meeting area, a church and then houses all around.  There were to Loli stations that are hollowed out large tree trunks that they use as drums to call for church service and to use during ceremonies.  As we were walking around we found everyone at the beach pulling water jugs out of a boat.  We discovered that there has been a severe shortage of water and the are carting there water in from a neighboring village that has spring water.  So jug after jug after container after 5 gallon buckets were being transported to all the houses.  Of course the Circus joined in and helped to deliver as many as possible.  We also realized that we had several empty jugs of water on our boat and asked if they would like them.  Yes, Yes!  

Now Chris and I are on a mission to go back to our anchorage get our water bottles and go and fill them up at the restaurant.  In doing so we found out the water is not potable outside of the restaurant so we were told by Tui, a local worker that had greeted us the first day and had set up the meeting with the village, that we should go to the farm and fill the water jugs to take to them.  We were on our way again across the bay to the farm that is hidden in between the mangroves... literally.  As we approached the mangroves I felt like we were going through Disneyland’s the Jungle Cruise ride.  As we found the end there was Teko (the farmer) and his daughter Mili.  They keep the produce to purchase in his little boat so that the people don’t have to trek up the hill to the farm.  

This little treasure spot was way better than any market I have found.  It is completely organic and so fresh that he kept running up the hill to go pick the produce for us.  We asked him if we could fill these water jugs for the village down the way and before we realized it there were a few other people gathering our jugs and hauling them up the muddy path to the natural spring outlet.  Not only is the spring water used for drinking but also for both the villages to use for their washing.  

As we were filling our jugs a couple of women were waiting to us the water to do their laundry...  

Teko said that there were 7 other local boats there today gathering water for the neighboring villages.  After the water jugs were filled and we had most of our veggies and fruit needed.... Teko took us on a tour through his farm explaining how he and his wife manage it.  So nice to see how they organize there farm from the goats on the hill, to the taro plants in the gutters, to the cabbage, lettuce, peppers, carrots, bok choy, tomatoes, egg plant, onions, and then the fruit, bananas, paw paws, papayas, coconuts, and jack fruit.  They use the same spring to water for their farm that they use to supply the two villages with.  

The natural spring

We waved goodbye to Teko and continued onto deliver the water the Si in the village.  I know it isn’t much but it was wonderful to help out and I truly believe that every little bit helps and if we can recycle and reuse as much as possible it helps to keep all the garbage off our shores and out of our air.  We met Si and delivered the water jugs and also met his wife Mello who was in the process of making pandanus (mats they sleep on) and also skirts for the dance performance the the cruise ship tonight.  She was lovely.  I had also gathered some of the clothes the girls out grew or didn’t wear and some stuffed animals for her to distribute as she likes.  

We are now getting ready to eat dinner and tomorrow we will head 9 miles north to the caves to go exploring.  We wanting to get back here on our way back down the coast to take Oma to the farm and meet Teko and his wife.  By then we should definitely need more veggies.

Hugs and love to everyone...

Heather

Loving our time with Oma in Fiji......

Hello Everyone,

We have had a great few days here in Fiji.  Oma joined us on Saturday early in the morning and we have had a fun filled time since.  We spent Saturday in Denerau letting Oma catch up on many much needed naps from not sleeping at all on the plane.  That evening we went to dinner and saw a fire walking ceremony in the middle of the restaurants.  It was very touristy but was still nice to see.  Not something you usually see in the middle of the open mall in the states.  At the ceremony they also had Kava tasting so I jumped right in there.  The kava looked like Muddy water and tasted (if it had any taste) a little like the way it looked... muddy water.  I didn't feel any of the effects from it besides numbness in my mouth and throat but I believe they tone it down for all the tourists coming through.  Sunday we got up early to go into the marina restaurant to watch the Fiji vs. England world cup rugby game.  It was pouring outside so it was nice to have a hot breakfast, hot coffee and a fun crowd of half Fijians and half of the visitors from England...

Sunday afternoon we sailed off to our first anchorage.  The weather had turned and it was a beautiful sunny day.  It was about a 30 stretch up to what is known as the Manta Pass.  As we were approaching the pass we snagged a fish on one of our lines and Oma was able to help reel it in.  We ended up catching a 12 pound Waloo. (It's not a misspelling for wahoo... they call it a waloo here, its a little different from the wahoo but extremely tasty!) It was a lot of fun seeing Oma's face and her excitement.  I am really glad we were able to catch one while she was here.  Oma catching a fish, check!

We were meeting our friends from Shine up at this anchorage.  They also have parents visiting from Australia and we both really wanted to meet each others parents.  When we got to the anchorage low and behold there were 5 other kid boats in the anchorage... Honey with 2 kids, our friends from Bob the Cat 4 kids, Seabatical 2 kids, Tinkerbell 2 kids, Javalot with 3 boys, and us and shine which make up 7 kids.  So all in all there were 20 kids playing on the beach, each others boats and swimming in the water.  That night we had a beach barb-e-que with the fish we had caught.  As always a nice way to do dinner sharing food with friends and family.

The next morning we got up early to go and find some giant manta rays.  We were enjoying our coffee when we started seeing all the other boats getting their gear and zooming over there.  It was told to us that the mantas show up around 2 hours before and after high tide.  Everyone was a little anxious to go so we gathered our gear and all of us got in the boat for the dinghy ride to the pass.  When we got there they were all just sitting in their dinghy and had been for about an hour and said that they couldn't find any mantas yet.  Then we looked up and saw 2 hotel tour boats approaching the pass and knew that we were right on time.  As the tour boats came by shouting their greeting of Bula Bula at us they said to follow them to the entry of the pass and the mantas are usually there at a cleaning station rock.   Sure enough there was a manta there.  We jumped in the water and got Oma all set up to follow us out there.  It is a little challenging the pass with its currents but Oma was a trooper and kept on swimming after us.  The snorkel bit is new to her and it takes a little while to remember to keep your head down because if you look up to much the top of the snorkel goes back in the water and you end up with a mouth full.  Not fun!  The first manta ended up swimming away because someone tried to get to close to it... but then about 30 minutes later the tour boats found another one and waved us over.  Oma was swimming in the channel and we saw from the other people excitement that the manta was heading right toward her.  The next thing we know she is trying to yell at us and point and say it is right under her... by the time she looked down again it had swam underneath her and was swimming away... It was fun.  The manta literally swam right underneath her about 5 feet.  Phew... Oma seeing Mantas, check!

We are now at the anchorage site called blue lagoon.  It was where the famous Brooke Shields movie Blue Lagoon was shot.  I can't seem to find the actual beach and Lagoon but will still look around.  It is a really nice anchorage with a really nice resort and super friendly staff.  When we were there yesterday having a sit down and watching some of the Samoa vs. US rugby game the girls met Miriam and Semili.  Two of the hotel workers.  They took the girls and began making these little animals with the palm fronds.  The girls just loved learning how to do this weaving and hopefully will remember how.  We will go back today to try to get another lesson and see if we can duplicate it.
it.

Javalot and Bob the cat came up here as well and there is a really long white sandy beach that the kids were running up and down on last night and then of course the swimming around the boat until it got dark.  Oma and I and Chris enjoyed our rum sunset drink and watch the kids play.

We woke up this picture out of our port hole this morning to an intruder swimming around the boat... wait is that Oma!  For crying out loud does this woman ever relax.... she is amazing!  I think she truly loves the boat life and maybe with us for quite some time.  Hee Hee

Hugs and Love to all.

Heather

Musket Cove Regatta, Fiji

Hello Everyone,

Well we had a wonderful time at the Musket Cove Regatta.  It was definitely a really long week of so many events that it was hard to keep up.  We seemed to be going from one thing to the next but it was a ton of fun.  I think my favorite parts were the fun sailing races that we participated in with our friends from Shine.  We gathered on Shine's boat with a few other families.  We all brought food and drinks and while the men got to get there racing minds in gear... the rest of the family (crew) were able to sit back and enjoy the beautiful scenery as it went by.  I also loved watching Chris and Amaia race the hobie cats around.  I was really surprised at how much fun she had and watching her raz the other competitors a touch, in good spirit of course, was really cute.  Otherwise it was a lot of eating, drinking, sun and dancing in the evenings..  We had a few of our friends arrive a few days ago and they also joined in the fun.  Skyus with their 3 kids and Por Dos with their 2 boys joined Shine, Miss Behaving, Talulah Ruby II, and us for many of the events.  The last day was the dinghy decorating and the kids had spent all day getting the dinghy ready for a circus performance and also getting their costumes put together... they were by far the most colorful and I am really glad that the dinghy didn't sink with 11 kids hanging off of it...

Chris sporting his new sulu for one of our dinners

Amaia so happy sailing with daddy in the hobie cat races

First race was with both girls.. the next races were to early in the morning for Alina..

The kids had a lot of fun spending the day playing with costumes and decorating the dinghy for the show...

Always time for a little play... Amaia and Alina looking for Starfish and Sand dollars.

We are now in Denarau Yacht Club and yet again Chris's Luck has not failed us.  They were completely booked up but he was able to secure a private mooring for us for a few days so that we could get laundry, cleaning (showers), provisioning, and of course picking Oma up at the Airport tomorrow.  All of us are so excited to see her and can't wait.  We all took the bus into Nadi today to go shopping and get some fresh fruits and veggies and then a quick stop at the market... I will have to say that I am not interested in going back.  I was really surprised at how filthy it is.  Now please understand when I say that I have a high tolerance and a very low expectation on sanitary conditions.. going through Mexico to some of the most remote fishing villages... I felt that I have seen it all but... there is nothing more dirty than a large city without a way or care to keep it clean... there was garbage everywhere including all over the floors of the grocery stores, homeless people (which I haven't seen in awhile, and just in general a very dirty town.  Our friends on Shine even found mice droppings all over the canned foods in the store and then found the little guy living in the chip aisle in the bag of chips.. but oh well... I guess I just wasn't in the mood for it today.. I am sort of tired of grocery shopping in the stores that are like warehouses filled with everything you can imagine, in now particular organization, and with dirt and dust over everything... I know that we are completely spoiled and fortunate with our availability of food in the states and selfishly I will so appreciate being able to go into the store and have a choice of more than 2 types of cereal, celery that is actually sold by the bunch and not the stalk for $18 for 2 stalks... and so forth.. I know that I am suppose to purchase the foods that are local and it is cheaper... unfortunately I can't live off Kava, potatoes, onions, eggplant, carrots and cabbage... Take that back... I guess I will be anyway :@)  BULA!  At least the people are incredibly friendly and it is beautiful... and I don't have to work... so I will stop complaining now...

We will be staying here for the Fijian Rugby vs. England game at 7am on Saturday morning and then heading out to catch up with Shine and start showing Oma some of the wonderful Island getaways that we can get to so that she can get a taste of the circus boat life.

We will be checking on the Tsunami warning for Fiji tonight.  With the 8.3 earthquake in Chile it has sent a possible Tsunami our way, and although minor... only 30cm to 1 meter it will still make for an interesting push around midnight tonight.  We are in a really good place and it is well protected but not knowing our mooring and how well it is maintained.. we will need to make sure all is good.

Hugs and love to all...

Heath